Rubber Flooring Inspection

by Nick Gromicko
Originally published at NACHI.ORG

Rubber flooring is flooring made from either natural tree rubber or recycled rubber from vehicle tires. Long-touted for its slip-resistant qualities and durability in gyms, hospitals, factories, and other commercial buildings and establishments, rubber flooring is increasingly being installed in kitchens, Installation of interlocking rubber tiles; photo courtesy of Best Garage Floor Tilesgarages, playrooms and other residential applications.  InterNACHI inspectors who perform residential and commercial inspections are likely to encounter rubber flooring at a diversity of venues, so knowing how to inspect for their condition and common defects can help them properly advise their clients.

Rubber flooring is normally considered as part of our new construction inspection.

A Brief History of Rubber

The ancient Mayans made rubber balls from plant and tree sap as long ago as 1600 BC.  In the early 19th century, inventors Charles Goodyear and Nathaniel Hayward mixed sulfur and gum plastic with rubber under high heat in a process called vulcanization to create a more resilient product. Material shortages and demand for an even more durable rubber in the early 20th century led to the creation of synthetic rubber made entirely from man-made ingredients. Today, rubber used to make floors may be synthetic, recycled primarily from used car and truck tires, or natural, formed from extracted sap from the rubber tree Hevea brasiliensis.

Rubber Flooring Types and Applications

Manufacturers generally offer rubber flooring in the following two forms, which can be selected based on the desired location, installation requirements and appearance:

• tiles, which are easier to install than sheets because they come in smaller, individual pieces that can be moved and adjusted with less difficulty. Homeowners can choose a patterned look to make the seams less noticeable; and Speckled rubber tiles; photo courtesy of Tootoo.com
• sheets, which boast greater moisture resistance because they have fewer seams, but they require  more precise installation than rubber tiles. A professional installer may be required.

Additionally, rubber flooring may be attached to the floor in the following ways:

• glued down, in which the tiles or sheets are glued to the subfloor. Glued rubber flooring will stay in place and offers excellent durability;
• loose-lay, in which rubber flooring is attached to a smooth and clean flooring material with double-sided carpet tape; and
• interlocking, in which tiles lock into each other's pre-cut grooves. Installation is easy because no glue or tape is required, allowing them to be installed over many types of existing flooring.

Advantages of Rubber Flooring

Available in a huge array of patterns - from speckled and interlocking to an inexpensive imitation of marble - and in myriad colors, rubber affords homeowners great design flexibility. Designs may even be tailored to their application, such as the incorporation of bold lines to define pathways in a hospital.

Some other advantages of rubber over other types of flooring are as follows:

• Glue may not be required. Unlike most other flooring options, rubber tiles (depending on installation requirements) often require only carpet tape or no adhesive at all. This makes installation easier and protects indoor air quality from the odor and toxic compounds released by the glue required for installing other types of flooring products.
• Rubber flooring beats many other types of flooring in terms of longevity.  When properly maintained, it can last the entire lifetime of a building. A urethane can be applied on top of the rubber to increase its durability and adds a glossy finish to the end product.
• Easy on the joints and comfortable to stand on for long periods of time, the inherent elasticity of rubber floors protects dropped breakables, unlike ceramic tiles and other alternatives. This quality also protects the floor against items that are dropped on it, while wooden, ceramic and linoleum floors are more easily chipped and scratched. Gym floors are generally made of rubber, which can protect users as well as absorb the impact from dropped dumbbells and other athletic equipment.
• Environmentally speaking, rubber flooring is low-impact. According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, the U.S. generates approximately 290 million scrap auto tires per year, which accounts for 2% of all solid waste. Millions of scrap tires are buried or burned, filling the air and water with benzene, styrene, phenols, butadiene, and other toxic chemicals. Re-forming them into new tires is limited by product quality constraints, but they can easily be reused for rubber flooring, mitigating one of the largest and most problematic sources of waste. Rubber flooring can also be removed many years later and reinstalled in new buildings, thus eliminating the need to expend energy and deplete resources to manufacture new flooring material. Natural rubber is taken from trees, which are harvested responsibly and are a renewable resource.
• It is acoustically insulating. Rubber provides much better sound dampening than vinyl, tile, and other hard surfaces. It can even be installed beneath wooden floors to eliminate creaking.
• It is anti-static, so it won't create static shocks during dry winters.
• Probably its greatest asset is that it's naturally slip-resistant. Rubber has a high coefficient of friction in wet and dry conditions relative to flooring alternatives, which makes it a good material around pools and other slippery areas. A surface textured in knobs will further increase slip resistance. To further illustrate this quality, consider the Olympics, where billions of eager eyes watch gymnasts leap and land on the sweat-laden floor. A slip under these circumstances could be disastrous, which is why Olympic floors are made of rubber.

Disadvantages of Rubber Flooring

InterNACHI inspectors, homeowners and commercial site managers should be aware of the following disadvantages and hazards associated with rubber flooring:

• flammability. All rubber is flammable, although various grades of fire-retardant rubber flooring are available, but the more flame-resistant materials are more expensive;
• lack of versatility. Carpet and wood floors may better suit traditional home décor, such as living room and bedroom applications;
• oxidation. Interactions with light, heat or certain metals will cause rubber to oxidize and become brittle;
• chalking. Exposure to inorganic fillers will deteriorate rubber flooring and cause it to become dull;
• softening and staining. This can be caused by interactions with oil, fatty acids, petroleum-based products, copper and solvents;
• loosening and lifting of seams. Rubber tiles are prone to moisture damage at the seams, which may allow additional moisture to penetrate into the subfloor. Rubber sheets protect better against moisture due to their lack of seams;Tire landfill; photo courtesty of Electronic Recyclers International
• odor. Rubber floors made from recycled tires have a characteristic smell that, while harmless, is found by some users to be unpleasant. The smell will lessen over time but will never go away completely. Problematic odors are especially prevalent in rubber floors manufactured outside the U.S. under low-quality standards, and they're glued together with strong-smelling urethane adhesives rather than the using the process of vulcanization. Some manufacturers recommend their recycled rubber floors not be installed in enclosed, unventilated spaces. Homeowners and commercial site owners can choose virgin rubber made from rubber trees, which is more expensive but lacks the odor associated with other rubber products; and
• off-gassing of volatile organic compounds (VOCs). While the Internet is flush with claims that the off-gassing from rubber flooring is limited to the harmless aforementioned odor, we at InterNACHI reviewed the only controlled study that attempted to measure the VOCs released by recycled rubber in floors. The 2010 study performed by California's Public Health Institute titled Tire-Derived Rubber (TDR) Flooring Chemical Emissions Study presented the following findings:
  • TDR and new rubber (NR) flooring products still emit a myriad of VOC chemicals, and their release is not uniform among the different products. A minority of products released excessive amounts of chemicals; and
  • Xylene, butylated hydroxytoluene, ethylbenzene, toluene, formaldehyde and acetaldehyde were found in a range of products. Benzene and carbon disulfide were above the health threshold in one or two samples… Some of the identified chemicals do not yet have health-based standards, making their health impacts difficult to assess.
    Based on their findings, the study's authors make the following suggestions:
  • TDR and NR flooring may be acceptable for indoor use, although products designated for exterior or exterior-interior use should generally be avoided indoors.
  • Ample pre-occupancy "flush out" (or off-site pre-conditioning) is appropriate when TDR and NR flooring products are used indoors.
  • Further refinement and testing of rubber-based products are necessary before these products can be promoted for wide use in most indoor environments.

Care and Maintenance

InterNACHI inspectors can pass along the following care and maintenance tips to their clients:

• Apply a protective finish coat soon after the floor is installed because the rubber surface will more readily scuff and attract soil during the first six to 12 months following installation. Do not apply an excessive number of coats of finish on soft rubber floors, as they can cause cracking and peeling. To ensure that this coating adheres to the newly installed flooring, it should be scrubbed with a mild pH stripper to remove any mold releases, paraffin, waxes, and other debris that may be left over from the manufacturing process. As the floor ages, it will harden and become easier to clean.
• Daily vacuuming is encouraged to keep dust to a minimum. Never clean a rubber floor with grit brushes or soiled cleaning pads. If the flooring cannot be fully cleaned with a vacuum, a damp mopping with a solution of mild soap and water will usually be sufficient. Never use acidic solvents or acetone because they may cause discoloration.  Avoid the use of turpentine or petroleum-based cleaners, as they are likely to make the rubber sticky and can permanently damage the chemical composition of the floor. Do not let the cleaning solution stand on the rubber floor for long periods of time.
• Avoid the use of high-speed burnishers on rubber floors because they can cause burning, scalping or melted floor tiles.
• In a kitchen application, quickly clean spilled grease, and ask your flooring contractor about the grease-resistant properties of the floor.

In summary, rubber flooring is a durable flooring material commonly used in commercial venues that is increasingly being used in residential settings for its ease of installation, decreased maintenance requirements, and eco-friendliness. InterNACHI inspectors, homeowners and commercial site managers can make informed decisions regarding the qualities that make the material attractive or possibly unsuitable, depending on the application.

Check out our last article about roof underlayment.

Preventing Water Damage in your Home

Originally published at NACHI.ORG

Water may be essential to life, but, as a destructive force, water can diminish the value of your home or building. Homes as well as commercial buildings can suffer water damage that results in increased maintenance costs, a decrease in the value of the property, lowered productivity, and potential liability associated with a decline in indoor air quality. The best way to protect against this potential loss is to ensure that the building components which enclose the structure, known as the building envelope, are water-resistant. Also, you will want to ensure that manufacturing processes, if present, do not allow excess water to accumulate. Finally, make sure that the plumbing and ventilation systems, which can be quite complicated in buildings, operate efficiently and are well-maintained. This article provides some basic steps for identifying and eliminating potentially damaging excess moisture.

Identify and Repair All Leaks and Cracks

The following are common building-related sources of water intrusion:

• windows and doors: Check for leaks around your windows, storefront systems and doors.
• roof: Improper drainage systems and roof sloping reduce roof life and become a primary source of moisture intrusion. Leaks are also common around vents for exhaust or plumbing, rooftop air-conditioning units, or other specialized equipment.
• foundation and exterior walls: Seal any cracks and holes in exterior walls, joints and foundations. These often develop as a naturally occurring byproduct of differential soil settlement.
• plumbing: Check for leaking plumbing fixtures, dripping pipes (including fire sprinkler systems), clogged drains (both interior and exterior), defective water drainage systems and damaged manufacturing equipment.
• ventilation, heating and air conditioning (HVAC) systems: Numerous types, some very sophisticated, are a crucial component to maintaining a healthy, comfortable work environment. They are comprised of a number of components (including chilled water piping and condensation drains) that can directly contribute to excessive moisture in the work environment. In addition, in humid climates, one of the functions of the system is to reduce the ambient air moisture level (relative humidity) throughout the building. An improperly operating HVAC system will not perform this function.

Prevent Water Intrusion Through Good Inspection and Maintenance Programs

Hire a qualified InterNACHI inspector to perform an inspection of the following elements of your building to ensure that they remain in good condition:

• flashings and sealants: Flashing, which is typically a thin metal strip found around doors, windows and roofs, are designed to prevent water intrusion in spaces where two building materials come together. Sealants and caulking are specifically applied to prevent moisture intrusion at building joints. Both must be maintained and in good condition.
• vents: All vents should have appropriate hoods, exhaust to the exterior, and be in good working order.
• Review the use of manufacturing equipment that may include water for processing or cooling. Ensure wastewater drains adequately away, with no spillage. Check for condensation around hot or cold materials or heat-transfer equipment.
• HVAC systems are much more complicated in commercial buildings. Check for leakage in supply and return water lines, pumps, air handlers and other components. Drain lines should be clean and clear of obstructions. Ductwork should be insulated to prevent condensation on exterior surfaces.
• humidity: Except in specialized facilities, the relative humidity in your building should be between 30% and 50%. Condensation on windows, wet stains on walls and ceilings, and musty smells are signs that relative humidity may be high. If you are concerned about the humidity level in your building, consult with a mechanical engineer, contractor or air-conditioning repair company to determine if your HVAC system is properly sized and in good working order. A mechanical engineer should be consulted when renovations to interior spaces take place.
• moist areas: Regularly clean off, then dry all surfaces where moisture frequently collects.
• expansion joints: Expansion joints are materials between bricks, pipes and other building materials that absorb movement. If expansion joints are not in good condition, water intrusion can occur.

Protection From Water Damage

• interior finish materials: Replace drywall, plaster, carpet and stained or water-damaged ceiling tiles. These are not only good evidence of a moisture intrusion problem, but can lead to deterioration of the work environment, if they remain over time.
• exterior walls: Exterior walls are generally comprised of a number of materials combined into a wall assembly. When properly designed and constructed, the assembly is the first line of defense between water and the interior of your building. It is essential that they be maintained properly (including regular refinishing and/or resealing with the correct materials).
• storage areas: Storage areas should be kept clean.  Allow air to circulate to prevent potential moisture accumulation.

Act Quickly if  Water Intrusion Occurs

Label shut-off valves so that the water supply can be easily closed in the event of a plumbing leak. If water intrusion does occur, you can minimize the damage by addressing the problem quickly and thoroughly. Immediately remove standing water and all moist materials, and consult with a building professional. Should your building become damaged by a catastrophic event, such as fire, flood or storm, take appropriate action to prevent further water damage, once it is safe to do so. This may include boarding up damaged windows, covering a damaged roof with plastic sheeting, and/or removing wet materials and supplies. Fast action on your part will help minimize the time and expense for repairs, resulting in a faster recovery.

We invite you to check out our last blog article about attic insulation.

Inspecting ICFs and Termites

by Nick Gromicko and Ethan Ward
Originally published at NACHI.ORG

Insulating concrete forms (ICFs) are rigid, plastic foam forms that hold foundation and structural concrete in place while it cures, and then stay in place afterward to provide insulation. ICFs provide some advantages over more traditional construction materials and methods, including improved durability, and protection from fire and natural disasters, as well as added energy efficiency.  However, a major problem associated with ICFs is termite infestation.  Because of this, some states where termite infestation is common have banned ICFs from underground use for basements and foundations.  Inspectors who examine foundations in regions where termites are a known problem can benefit from understanding the difficulties of identifying infestations in ICFs.  Consumers planning a new build will want to be aware of strategies for preventing such problems.

Termite Types

There are three main kinds of termites found in North America:  dampwood, drywood and subterranean.  Dampwood termites are found mostly in the Pacific Northwest and coastal British Columbia.  These pests attack decaying wood and can usually be controlled by removing their moisture source, unlike drywood termites, which do not require a significant moisture supply. 

Drywood termites are often found in the southernmost parts of the continent, including Hawaii and Mexico.  They can fly directly into buildings and begin colonies in dry wood.  The use of treated wood is generally effective for controlling infestations of this type.  Dampwood and drywood termites are not the biggest concerns in relation to ICFs.

Subterranean termites are the real worry with ICFs, and they cause the most damage to building structures.  These termites live in the soil in order to avoid being affected by extreme temperatures while maintaining access to essential moisture.  They attack any source of cellulose within foraging distance of their colony, such as dry wood.  In addition to wood, they feed on cardboard, paper and fiberboard that are in contact with or close to the ground.

The Formosan termite, which is a type of subterranean termite, is the most aggressive and destructive.  Although typically smaller than most other species, its colonies can cause damage faster than other termites due to the sheer numbers they travel in.

Damage to Structures

It may seem strange that termites could be a concern for structures that are, by definition, mostly concrete, since they would not seem to provide an obvious food source for the bugs.  The confusion often comes up because it is assumed that termites need direct access to their food in order to begin causing damage.  However, the resourceful subterranean termites have found ways to actually use ICFs to their advantage when looking for food.

When a source of food is not directly in contact with the soil, subterranean termites will build tunnels to get to it.  The tunnels, called shelter tubes, can go through cracks in concrete foundations and slabs, as well as through spaces around utility pipes. 

The problem with ICFs is that, while the EPS insulation on the outside does not provide the termites with a source of food, the termites can tunnel through it to their food sources virtually undetected.  In one of many reported cases, there were no outward signs of infestation.  Meanwhile, termites had tunneled inside the EPS all the way to the roof and were feasting.  By the time the wood components of the house had begun to show signs of infestation, significant damage had already been done.  The cover that EPS insulation on the outside of ICFs provides for termites, allowing them to tunnel toward food undetected, is the main concern in states that have restricted the use of ICFs.

Protecting ICFs from Termite Infestation

Solutions for protecting ICF structures from termites have been implemented successfully throughout the U.S., and it is not difficult to adapt or modify existing means of control to work compatibly with ICFs.  The following are some means for preventing and controlling termite problems that have been used successfully with ICFs.

Depending on the locality, some of these strategies may be required by code for ICFs that extend below ground.

• Waterproofing and barrier systems, such as Polyguard 650 XT, have been designed specifically for use with ICFs.  These membranes accomplish the dual purpose of waterproofing the foundation while simultaneously protecting it from termites.
• Chemical treatment of soils around foundations using a termiticide has proven helpful in controlling termites near traditional wood buildings, and is also helpful around structures using ICFs.  However, the use of these treatments is banned in some areas where chemical agents could seep through soils with high water-table levels, potentially resulting in groundwater and soil contamination.
• Metal shields with properly sealed joints attached over foundation walls force termites to try to build their tunnels on the outside of the shield, where the termites are more easily detected and can be dealt with accordingly.  This helps prevent the hidden tunneling that they can do through EPS insulation.
• Particle-size barriers made of granules of rock are also useful.  The rocks are small enough that, when compacted together, leave spaces between them that are too small for termites to get through.  These barriers can be used effectively under slabs, around plumbing, and around ICF foundations to create a physical barrier to termites.
• Steel wire mesh is also available for creating a physical barrier that can be installed with ICF foundations.  The most popular wire mesh is called Termimesh® and is constructed so that the holes in the mesh are too small for termites to fit through.  Proper installation of this mesh is critical for it to be effective, and it must be installed by a professional trained by the manufacturer.
• If termite problems have already occurred, there are various baits and traps designed to mitigate the infestation so that repairs can begin.  These are typically designed so that termites come in contact with a slow-acting chemical toxicant which they then spread throughout the rest of their colonies.

Termite problems with ICFs can, initially, seem confusing, since ICFs themselves are not a source of food for the bugs, but tunnels running undetected through the outer EPS insulation to food sources are a serious concern in some areas.  Understanding this problem and knowing how to prevent it can be helpful to InterNACHI inspectors who examine ICFs in regions that are susceptible to termite infestation.

We invite you to check out our last blog article about air sealing exhaust fans.

Inspecting for Air Sealing Exhaust Fans

by Nick Gromicko, Katie McBride and Kate Tarasenko
Originally published at NACHI.ORG

Exhaust fans are typically installed in bathroom ceilings and in kitchen range hoods, or sometimes in kitchen ceilings or walls, to provide spot ventilation. Generous holes are typically cut in the ceiling drywall for installation of bath exhaust fans and kitchen exhaust fan ducts, leaving gaps where the fan box or duct is installed. While these gaps may be covered by decorative trim (in the case of exhaust fan boxes) or be hidden in cabinets (in the case of range hood exhaust fan ducts), those coverings will not stop air leaks.  Home inspectors should take note that when the drywall is not sealed to the edges of ducting or exhaust fan boxes (which themselves may be leaky), a considerable amount of conditioned air can leak through these gaps and into the unconditioned attic space, which can create air pressure imbalances, leading to a host of secondary issues related to energy efficiency and comfort.

Pressure and temperature differences between conditioned and unconditioned spaces encourage air flow where these leaks occur. Such air leakage represents energy loss; it could also potentially allow warm, moisture-laden air into unconditioned attics, where it can condense on cold surfaces, creating moisture problems, including mold growth. Air barriers need to be continuous in order to be effective; this means sealing all penetrations in exterior walls, ceilings, and floors adjoining unconditioned spaces.

Homeowners should make sure that the work of sealing around exhaust fans and ducts is performed after the fans and drywall have been installed. The responsibility for sealing air leaks around exhaust fans and ducts should be included in the contract for the appropriate trade (depending on the workflow at a specific job site for new-construction homes).

How Professionals Air Seal Holes Around the Kitchen Exhaust Duct

1. Openings for the duct should be cut that are no bigger than needed to fit the exhaust duct through the ceiling or top of the kitchen cabinet. Cuts should be clean and even.

2. After the exhaust duct is installed, air seal with caulk between the duct and drywall from the room side. If gaps are larger than a ¼-inch, use canned spray foam, applied carefully. Do not use pieces of fibrous insulation, which does not effectively air-seal. If the gaps are larger than 1 inch, they can be sealed from the attic side with air-blocking material, such as rigid foam that is cut to fit and sealed in place with caulk or spray foam. 

3. Use caulk or pre-made exterior wall gaskets to air seal the exterior fan duct vent to the exterior wall. Ensure that exterior gaskets are properly integrated with the house-wrap.

How Professionals Air Seal the Bathroom Fan Housing

1. Cut openings in the ceiling that are no bigger than needed to fit the fan box. Make clean, even cuts in the drywall.

2. After the fan is installed, air seal with caulk between the fan housing and drywall from the room side before installing the trim.

3. If any gaps are larger than a 1/4-inch, use canned spray foam, applied carefully, so that the trim will fit over it.

4. If any gaps are larger than 1/2-inch, they can be sealed from the attic side with air blocking material, such as rigid foam that is cut to fit and sealed in place with caulk or spray foam.  Do not use pieces of fibrous insulation, which does not effectively air-seal.

5. Seal holes in the fan housing with caulk or metal tape.

6. Use caulk or pre-made exterior wall gaskets to air seal the exterior fan duct vent to the exterior wall. Ensure that exterior gaskets are properly integrated with the house-wrap.

How Professionals Create an Insulation Shield for the Exhaust Fan

The bathroom exhaust fan box may have air leaks and holes in the casing. The fan should be covered to stop air leaks and to allow for the installation of insulation over it.

1. Create a five-sided box from a solid air barrier material, such as rigid foam, gypsum board or plywood. Tape the seams of the box with house-wrap tape (not duct tape) or seal it with mastic. Cut an access in the box for the exhaust duct.

2. Seal the box to the ceiling gypsum board and seal around the exhaust duct with caulk or canned spray foam.

3. Cover the box with attic insulation.

Summary

Exhaust fans are typically installed in bathroom ceilings and in kitchen range hoods, or sometimes in kitchen ceilings or walls to provide spot ventilation. If the space between the exhaust fan and the surrounding drywall is not properly sealed, large amounts of conditioned air can leak through, which can lead to energy loss and moisture problems. Homeowners should make sure that their contract includes this sealing work and that it's done after the installation of the exhaust fans. Home inspectors should check for air leaks in these potential trouble spots.

Don't forget to check out our last blog article about crawlspace hazards.

Inspecting the Crawlspace Hazards

by Nick Gromicko
Originally published at NACHI.ORG

Crawlspaces are host to a large number of conditions that may harm the house or inspectors. Never enter a crawlspace without proper personal protective equipment.

Crawlspaces are notorious for the nasty discoveries made there by inspectors, and it isn't hard to figure out why; for one thing, their cool, dark environment attracts undesirable pests and can promote dangerous conditions. And since crawlspaces are mostly unmonitored, hazards can breed there unchecked for long periods of time. The following are some of the more common dangers discovered in crawlspaces:

• mold and fungus. Just like pests, mold and fungus can grow rapidly in crawlspaces. They are both a health concern as well as a cause of wood decay, which can require a costly repair. Airborne mold spores can potentially enter the living space from the crawlspace. Molds produce allergens (substances that can cause allergic reactions), irritants and, in some cases, potentially toxic substances called mycotoxins. Inhaling or touching mold or mold spores may cause allergic reactions in sensitive individuals. Allergic responses include hay fever-type symptoms, such as sneezing, runny nose, red eyes, and skin rash (dermatitis). Homes infected with molds and fungus are also much more difficult to sell, often requiring costly remediation prior to closing the deal.
• pests. Dirt crawlspaces provide the environment that is enjoyed by ants, termites, and various other pests. Termites cannot survive long outside of their mud tubes, which you may see on foundation walls and piers. Carpenter ants should be plainly obvious as well, and both of theses pests can cause structural damage. Also bear in mind that where there are pests, there may also be pesticides, perhaps improperly applied, which is one reason why you should not enter crawlspaces without personal protective equipment. Snakes, spiders, bees and scorpions may also be lingering in the crawlspace, and while they pose little structural danger to the house, they certainly can harm you! Rapid retreat there can be difficult, so be cognizant of escape paths.
• hantavirus. Crawlspaces are perhaps the most likely sites in houses where hantavirus may be found. This is partly due to the fact that rodents that carry the pathogen are attracted to areas that are undisturbed by humans. Also, crawlspaces are generally dark places that lack ultraviolet (UV) radiation, which can rapidly inactivate the virus. Exposure to hantavirus may lead to Hantavirus Cardiopulmonary Syndrome (HCS), characterized by headaches, fever, difficulty breathing and, often, death. There is no known cure, vaccine or treatment that specifically targets HCS. However, if the symptoms are recognized early, patients may benefit from oxygen therapy.
• asbestos insulation. Do not disturb asbestos! The microscopic fibers that cause illness become airborne when the insulation is handled or disturbed, and if it appears to be in good shape, it might not be a problem at all. Prolonged exposure to asbestos insulation can cause mesothelioma, which is a cancer of the lining of the chest and the abdominal cavity, as well as asbestosis, in which the lungs become scarred with fibrous tissue.
• standing water or sewage.  Dirt crawlspaces are susceptible to water seepage, which can create a host of problems, such as microbial growth, odors, damage to stored belongings, and risk of electrical shock.
• structural collapse. If the home itself is unstable, it might be dangerous to enter its crawlspace. It is easy to become pinned, trapped or even crushed by unstable crawlspaces. Make sure someone knows that you are inspecting the crawlspace before you enter it.
• improper wiring. Watch for loose wiring, open junction boxes, or wiring that has become loose and fallen to the floor. 
• source of energy waste. Traditionally, crawlspaces have been vented to prevent problems with moisture, and most building codes require vents to aid in removing moisture from the crawlspace. However, many building professionals now recognize that ventilated crawlspaces allow a great deal of heat loss in the winter and moisture intrusion in the summer from moist air.

In summary, inspectors should expect to encounter a number of dangerous conditions in crawlspaces, so they should take proper precautions before entering them.

We invite you to check out our last blog article about housewrap.

Texas Longhorn Tailgate for OSU Game

PrimeFirst Inspections is excited to invite all our friends and family from across Central Texas to our tailgate for the Univeristy of Texas vs Oklahoma State University football game tomorrow.

We got the smoker fired up this afternoon and the briskets will be going on any time now for that long and slow smokey flavor.

We only have a little over a week left for our home seller's special for a full home inspection. While buyers definitely get inspections, we are strong proponents of seller inspections so that you can ready your home for the maximum offer.

We'll be heading to Houston next weekend for the Houston Cougars so if you're in the Austin area tomorrow, stop by our tailgate at the Comerica Building at 15th and Guadalupe.

And remember, for a ce rtified home inspection that you can trust in this beautiful city we're lucky to call home . . . give the professionals at PrimeFirst Inspections a ring. You can visit more about our Austin office here.

For those of you curious about the area that we cover, below is a map of our preferred service area but feel free to call us for a quote and we'll see if we can't make it worth your while to have us drive out to you. Thanks from all your friends here.

The Components of an Energy-Efficient House

Originally published at NACHI.ORG

Designing and building an energy-efficient home that conforms to the many considerations faced by home builders can be a challenge. However, at PrimeFirst Inspections, we believe that any house style can be made to require relatively minimal amounts of energy to heat and cool, and be comfortable. It's easier now to get your architect and builder to use improved designs and construction methods. Even though there are many different design options available, they all have several things in common: a high R-value; atightly sealed thermal envelope; controlled ventilation; and lower heating and cooling bills.

Some designs are more expensive to build than others, but none of them needs to be extremely expensive to construct. Re cent technological improvements in buildingcomponents and construction techniques, and heating, ventilation, and cooling (HVAC) systems, allow most modern energy-saving ideas to be seamlessly integrated into any type of house design without sacrificing comfort, health or aesthetics. The following is a discussion of the major elements of energy-efficient home design and construction systems.

The Thermal Envelope

A thermal envelope is everything about the house that serves to shield the living space from the outdoors. It includes the wall and roof assemblies, insulation, windows, doors, finishes, weather-stripping, and air/vapor-retarders. Specific items to consider in these areas are described below. This is a test we perform with thermal imaging.

Wall and Roof Assemblies

There are several alternatives to the conventional stick (wood-stud) framed wall and roof co nstruction now available, and they'regrowing in popularity. They include:

• Optimum Value Engineering (OVE)
  This is a method of using wood only where it does the most work, thus reducing costly wood use and saving space for insulation. However, workmanship must be of the highest order since, there is very little room for construction errors.
• Structural Insulated Panels (SIP)
  These are generally plywood or oriented strand board (OSB) sheets laminated to a core of foam board. The foam may be 4 to 8 inches thick. Since the SIP acts as both the framing and the insulation, construction is much faster than OVE or its older counterpart, stick-framing. The quality of construction is often superior, too, since there are fewer places for workers to make mistakes.
• Insulating Concrete Forms (ICF)
  These often consist of two layers of extruded foam board (one inside the house and one outside the house) that act as the form for a steel-reinforced concrete ce nter. This is the fastest and least likely technique to have construction mistakes. Such buildings are also very strong and easily exceed code requirements for tornado- and hurricane-prone areas.

Insulation

An energy-efficient house has much higher insulation R-values than required by most local building codes. For example, a typical house in New York state mightcontain haphazardly installed R-11 fiberglass insulation in the exterior walls and R-19 in the ceiling, whilethe floors and foundation walls may not be insulated at all. A similar but well-designed and constructed house's insulation levels would be in the range of R-20 to R-30 in the walls (including the foundation) and R-50 and R-70 in the ceilings. Carefully applied fiberglass batt or roll, wet-spray cellulose, or foam insulation will fill wall cavities completely.

Air / Vapor Retarders

These are two things that sometimes can do the same job. How to design and install them depend a great deal on the climate and what method of construction is chosen. No matter where you are building, water-vapor condensation is a major threat to the structure of a house. In cold climates, pressure differences can drive warm, moist indoor air into exterior walls and attics. It condenses as it cools. The same can be said for southern climates, just in reverse. As the humid outdoor air enters the walls to find cooler wall cavities, it condenses into liquid water. This is the main reasonthat some of the old buildings in the South that have been retrofitted with air conditioners now have mold and rotten wood problems.

Regardless of your climate, it is important to minimize water vapor migration by using a carefully designed thermal envelope and sound construction practices. Any water vapor that does manage to get into the walls or attics must be allowed to get out again. Some construction methods and climates lend themselves to allowing the vapor to flow towards the outdoors. Others are better suited to letting it flow towards the interior so that the house ventilation system can deal with it.

The airtight drywall approach and the simple CS system are other methods to control air and water-vapor movement in a residential building. These systems rely on the nearly airtight installation of sheet materials, such as drywalland gypsum board, on the interior as the main barrier, and carefully sealed foam board and/or plywood on the exterior.

Foundations and Slabs

Foundation walls and slabs should be at least as well-insulated as the living space walls. Uninsulated foundations have a negative impact on home energy use and comfort, especially if the family uses the lower parts of the house as living space. Also, appliances that supply heat as a by-product, such as domestic hot water heaters, washers, dryers and freezers, are often located in basements. By carefully insulating the foundation walls and floo r of the basement, these appliances can assist in the heating of the house.

Windows

The typical home loses over 25% of its heat through windows. Since even modern windows insulate less than a wall, in general, an energy-efficient home in heating-dominated climates should have few windows on the north, east, and west exposures. A rule-of-thumb is that window area should not exceed 8% to 9% of the floor area, unless your designer is experienced in passive solar techniques. If this is the case, then increasing window area on the southern side of the house to about 12% of the floor area is recommended. In cooling-dominated climates, it's important to select east-, west-and south-facing windows with low solar heat-gain coefficients (these block solar heat gain). A properly designed roof overhang for south-facing windows is important to avoid overheating in the summer in most areas of the continental United States. At the very least, Energy Star-rated windows (or their equivalents) should be specified according to the Energy Star Regional Climatic Guidelines.

In general, the best-sealing windows are awning and casement styles, since these often close tighter than sliding types. Metal window frames should be avoided, especially in cold climates. Always seal the wall air/vapor diffusion-retarder tightly around the edges of the window frame to prevent air and water vapor from entering the wall cavities.

Air-Sealing

A well-constructed thermal envelope requires that insulating and sealing be precise and thorough. Sealing air leaks everywhere in the thermal envelope reduces energy loss significantly. Good air-sealing alone may reduce utility costs by as much as 50% when compared to other houses of the same type and age. Homes built in this way are so energy-efficient that specifying the correct sizing heating/cooling system can be tricky. Rules-of-thumb system-sizing is often inaccurate, resulting in oversizing and wasteful operation.

Controlled Ventilation

Since an energy-efficient home is tightly sealed, it's also important and fairly simple to deliberately ventilate the building in a controlled way. Controlled, mechanical ventilation of the building reduces air moisture infiltration and thus the health risks from indoor air pollutants.This also promotes a more comfortable atmosphere, and reduces the likelihood of structural damage from excessive moisture accumulation.

A carefully engineered ventilation system is important for other reasons, too. Since devices such as furnaces, water heaters, clothes dryers, and bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans exhaust air from the house, it's easier to depressurize a tight house, if all else is ignored. Natural-draft appliances, such as water heaters, wood stoves and furnaces may be back-drafted by exhaust fans, which canlead to a lethal build-up of toxic gases in the house . For this reason, it's a good idea to only use sealed-combustion heating appliances wherever possible, and provide make-up air for all other appliances that can pull air out of the building.

Heat-recovery ventilators (HRV) or energy-recovery ventilators (ERV) are growing in use for controlled ventilation in tight homes. These devices salvage about 80% of the energy from the stale exhaust air, and then deliver that energy to the entering fresh air by way of a heat exchanger inside the device. They are generally attached to the central forced-air system, but they may have their own duct system.

Other ventilation devices, such as through-the-wall and/or trickle vents may be used in conjunction with an exhaust fan. They are, however, more expensive to operate and possibly more uncomfortable to use, since they have no energy-recovery features to pre-condition the incoming air. Uncomfortable incoming air can be a serious problem if the house is in a northern climate, andit ca n create moisture problems in humid climates. This sort of ventilation strategy is recommended only for very mild to low-humidity climates.

Heating and Cooling Requirements

Houses incorporating the above elements should require relatively small heating systems (typically, less than 50,000 BTUs per hour, even for very cold climates). Some have nothing more than sunshine as the primary source of heat energy. Common choices for auxiliary heating include radiant in-floor heating from a standard gas-fired water heater, a small boiler, furnace, or electric heat pump. Also, any common appliance that gives off waste heat can contribute significantly to the heating requirements for such houses. Masonry, pellet andwood stoves are also options, but they must be operated carefully to avoid back-drafting.

If an air conditioner is required, a small (6,000 BTUs per hour) unit can be sufficient. Some designs use only a large fan and the cooler evening air to cool down the house. In the morning, the house is closed up and it stays comfortable until the next evening.

Beginning a Project

Houses incorporating the above features have many advantages. They feel more comfortable, since the additional insulation keeps the interior wall temperatures more stable. The indoor humidity is better controlled, and drafts are reduced. A tightly sealed air/vapor retarder reduces the likelihood of moisture and air seeping through the walls.Such housesare also very quiet because of the extra insulation and tight construction.

There are some potential drawbacks. They may cost more and take longer to build than a conventional home, especially if your builder and the contractors are not familiar with these energy-saving features. Even though the structure may differ only slightly from a conventional home, your builder and the contractors may be unwilling to deviate from what they've always done before. They may need educationand training if they have no experience with these systems. Because some systems have thicker walls than a typical home, they may require a larger foundation to provide the same floor space.

Before beginning a home-building project, carefully evaluate the site and its climate to determine the optimum design and orientation. You may want to take the time to learn how to use some of the energy-related software programs that are available to assist you. Prepare a design that accommodates appropriate insulation levels, moisture dynamics, and aesthetics. Decisions regarding appropriate windows, doors, andHVAC appliances are central to an efficient design. Also evaluate the cost, ease of construction, the builder's limitations, and building code-compliance. Some schemes are simple to construct, while others can be extremely complex and thus more expensive.

An increasing number of builders are participating in the federal government's Building America and Energy Star Homes Programs , which promote energy-efficient houses. Many builders participate so that they can differentiate themselves from their competitors. Construction costs can vary significantly, depending on the materials, construction techniques, contractor profit margin, experience, and the type ofHVAC chosen. However, the biggest benefits from designing and building an energy-efficient home are its superior comfort level and lower operating costs. This relates directly to an increase in its real-estate market value.

We invite you to check out our last blog article about greywater systems.

The Components of an Energy-Efficient House https://t.co/PHXUjn4faw https://t.co/0RS0cQLwB1

The Components of an Energy-Efficient House https://t.co/PHXUjn4faw http://pic.twitter.com/0RS0cQLwB1

— PrimeFirst Inspect (@primefirst_home) October 16, 2017

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Another great day of inspections

So proud of our team's hard work today. We set a record for number inspections in Baton Rouge for the whole company! Great job guys.

Big Weekend at State Fair of Texas for PrimeFirst Inspections https://t.co/w2IUkrYQ7u

Big Weekend at State Fair of Texas for PrimeFirst Inspections https://t.co/w2IUkrYQ7u

— PrimeFirst Inspect (@primefirst_home) October 14, 2017

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